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  • #91
    Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
    I don't want to nag you Noll but you are heading into dangerous waters with all that metal removed, the transmission tunnel is about the only thing left giving any rigidity. You need some welded in support bars to keep things from sagging, alright I'll be quite now.
    Do you have any suggestions where? I haven't removed anything else major since I did the rocker a couple weeks back (and the other floorpan/rocker is still in place until I finish this side), so I figured I'd be ok. I have some more square stock kicking around, and am more than happy to tack it in if I know where the most optimal places are .

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    • #92
      I would start by measuring very accurately the P/S door opening, top, bottom and diagonally, record those measurements then tack weld the door closed with a strap at the top back corner of the door on the inside where the door and B pillar are flat and inline.
      Now you want to weld in some bracing in the D/S door opening to recreate those P/S numbers exactly at the same points on the D/S.
      I see you have braced the bottom of the door opening, hopefully that matches the measurement on the P/S, you will need a brace at the top and both diagonals. That should do until the rocker is repaired inside and out, then you can remove the diagonals but leaving the top brace, that will give you enough room to complete the D/S floor pan.

      Once the floor pan is complete move on the the D/S rear quarter, once that is done weld bracing, top, bottom and both diagonals on the P/S door opening BEFORE removing the door and repeat the procedure, rocker first, then floor pan, then rear quarter.
      After both sides are done you can safely remove all the bracing and hopefully all your panels will line up, ideally all that bracing should have been welded in before removing any panels were removed.
      Hope that is not too long winded but it would be a shame to see all your hard work wasted,

      Those dimensions on the doors can be altered with the use of ratchet cargo straps and a jack, if you do remove the driveline mark the location of the cross members supporting the engine, transmission and diff and once the driveline has been dropped replace those cross supports for stability.

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      • #93
        Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
        I would start by measuring very accurately the P/S door opening, top, bottom and diagonally, record those measurements then tack weld the door closed with a strap at the top back corner of the door on the inside where the door and B pillar are flat and inline.
        Now you want to weld in some bracing in the D/S door opening to recreate those P/S numbers exactly at the same points on the D/S.
        I see you have braced the bottom of the door opening, hopefully that matches the measurement on the P/S, you will need a brace at the top and both diagonals. That should do until the rocker is repaired inside and out, then you can remove the diagonals but leaving the top brace, that will give you enough room to complete the D/S floor pan.

        Once the floor pan is complete move on the the D/S rear quarter, once that is done weld bracing, top, bottom and both diagonals on the P/S door opening BEFORE removing the door and repeat the procedure, rocker first, then floor pan, then rear quarter.
        After both sides are done you can safely remove all the bracing and hopefully all your panels will line up, ideally all that bracing should have been welded in before removing any panels were removed.
        Hope that is not too long winded but it would be a shame to see all your hard work wasted,

        Those dimensions on the doors can be altered with the use of ratchet cargo straps and a jack, if you do remove the driveline mark the location of the cross members supporting the engine, transmission and diff and once the driveline has been dropped replace those cross supports for stability.
        Thanks for the comprehensive write-up! I'll be sure to do all that before I touch anything else on the shell. I will need to relocate that lower brace I currently have in before I test-fit the door (once the rocker is tacked in), but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

        And yeah, one of the people at the swap meet was mentioning that his rear trans support no longer fit after he welded in new floors with the driveline out, so I'm going to try to get that all sorted before I pull the engine/trans (if it comes to that, I'd like to leave them in if possible), then do as you say and reinstall the mounts for strength.



        I've been pondering how best to align the new rocker to ensure it's in exactly the same place; I'm thinking at the front I'll measure the other side for the distance from the front arch overlap to the bottom of the doorjamb panel.
        At the rear I'm going to spraypaint over where the inner rocker is spot-welded over the inner tie-in panel, so when I remove the inner rocker I'll have a cutoff line of paint to allow me to align the new inner it exactly as it was.




        Temporary sharpie mark where the paint line will end up being after panel removal:

        Last edited by Noll; 05-01-2019, 02:17 PM.

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        • #94
          Removed the plates leftover from the tube-frame mounting jig:



          And cleaned up:



          As the seatbelt mounts were removed and replaced with future mounts for the chassis this body was going to be placed on, I'll be cutting that section out and replacing with the good bit from my inner rocker. Some fabrication will be required for the lower bit, but at least I have most of it:



          Removed the front mount pocket too. Should be pretty simple to bring back to stock.



          I'll be cutting off the rear of my replacement rockers to weld in here (unless anyone has some spare tabco sections, seems a shame to cut up my complete replacements for a few sections).



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          • #95
            Hey look what Charlie has added to his line up, http://www.datsunzparts.com/rockpanels.html

            Noll, let me check my Z junk pile, I may have some rockers in there.

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            • #96
              Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
              Hey look what Charlie has added to his line up, http://www.datsunzparts.com/rockpanels.html

              Noll, let me check my Z junk pile, I may have some rockers in there.
              Of course those show up the week after I buy the shell lol. No matter, I still got a ton of good parts out of it regardless, and will keep using what I have. Looks like those replacement inner rockers don't have the seatbelt mount indent though?

              That would be amazing, thanks! I hate to cut up my perfectly good pair of replacements for some small sections, especially as you've said that they're better then the tabco pieces and are NLA.

              I'll hold off on cutting mine up just yet, plenty of other work to do on this car anyway .
              Last edited by Noll; 05-02-2019, 08:05 PM.

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              • #97
                This is what I have,

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                • #98
                  Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                  This is what I have,
                  Darn, looks like they're missing exactly the bits I need (except that d/s rear section). I suppose Zs do all rust out in the same spots haha. Appreciate you having a look for me though!

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                  • #99
                    Didn't work on the Z today, but I did measure the doorframes at a few different points and angles, and everything checks out! I'll weld in the extra bracing tomorrow, then get to preparing for the new rocker to go in.

                    I did also get a bumper back on my Niva, and got it running (It's sat for a year + since last started).



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                    • Realized that it would be a massive pain to try to clamber in and out of the car once the bracing is welded in, so did some repair work to the rear of the door opening so that I actually have somewhere to weld the new rocker to.

                      Not perfect, but pretty happy with it.

                      Started with this:



                      Did this:



                      And complete. I'll be dealing with the swaybar mount rust later, as I can't really jack the car up until it has structural rigidity again.



                      Got the flange for the outer section of wheel arch in place, as it is sandwiched between the inner section and the rocker. Will be seam sealing/painting everything before it's hidden under the rocker.



                      Next up is the bracing itself, then the rocker patches (looks like I'll be cutting up my complete replacement outers), and then I can actually start mocking up the fitment on the car!
                      Last edited by Noll; 05-09-2019, 06:58 PM.

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                      • Decided to bite the bullet and get a better welder, as even at max power I can barely get penetration with .030 wire, and nada with .024. This was an awesome purchase, I wish I'd done it earlier.

                        Got this for 300$ off; it was far cheaper to get the combo kit than the standalone welder for some reason.



                        .024 with the old welder VS the new Lincoln:






                        Started by filling the hole that was cut into the rocker for the intended drag car chassis mount. From this:


                        To this:



                        Next up, the outside. Started with this:



                        Did some measuring and cutting, and had this. Fixed the cutout of the center brace too; not pretty as it is never seen.



                        All welded up.




                        Made a piece for the inside to bring it out to the length of the outside:





                        And compared to the other side:



                        Next up is to do the same process to the rear, then prep it all to be welded to the car.

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                        • Ambitious.
                          Eric Zondervan
                          72 240Z
                          11 Infinity G37S 6spd.
                          11 Sierra 4X4
                          65 Honda Moped
                          14 Kia Rondo EX
                          2008 Ski Doo MXZ
                          2010 Husqvarna 450 Supermoto.

                          Comment


                          • That's good work, the 140 Lincoln is a great unit, I pushed mine to limit many times for over 10 yrs and it was still working perfectly when I sold it and went to Miller.

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                            • Thanks guys!

                              Yeah, I'm really liking it so far! Shouldn't have any welding to do that it can't manage, and the build quality is way better then my old welder.

                              -----------

                              Cut out the inside section to weld in the seatbelt mount, then realized I should do the outside 1st to ensure I get it aligned properly.




                              Got the outside on and tacked. Decided to do the cut/weld after where it steps down so that it will be hidden if I didn't ground it down perfectly.



                              All welded up and sanded back. This is where I unfortunately ran out of shielding gas, and nowhere to get more with it being a holiday.



                              Happily, the welding I did get done allowed me to do some measuring, cutting, and then mock up the rocker fitment on the car!





                              I still need to take about 1/8" off the door pillar for it all to fit perfectly, then tack it (after doing the bracing finally), and mock up the door to see what adjustment is needed.

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                              • More done today, as I have welding gas again.

                                Tacked in the seatbelt mount:



                                And fully welded/ground down. Rather happy with this, no visible difference at all!



                                Made 2 other patches and welded them in:



                                and ground down. I'll need to get a bit for my die grinder to get the recessed section prettied up:



                                And then, the moment I've been waiting months for! Got the rocker tacked in place and aligned. Only took a little tweaking to get it lined up properly, which is nice. Door opens and closes as it should. Bottom of for is bent for unrelated reasons, but the gap is even all around.





                                On Monday I'll weld it on for good, then I can move onto the rear quarter at long last!

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