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Thread: Replacing clutch flex hose

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lakefield
    Posts
    31

    Default Replacing clutch flex hose

    I'm replacing my clutch master and slave cylinders and the clutch flex line that connects to the slave cylinder on my 75 280Z. The problem I'm having is trying to get the old flex line off. I've disconnected it at the slave cylinder end but can't get it disconnected at the other end. The FSM says to "1. Disconnect clutch tube from clutch hose at bracket on side member. 2. Remove lock spring fixing hose to bracket, then disengage hose from bracket. Remove lock plate from bracket."
    I tried loosening the metal clutch tube with a flare nut wrench but it wouldn't move. I'm also not sure what the 'lock spring' referred to in the FSM is either.

    Any suggestions/ helpful hints on removing the flex line would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Glen

    75 280Z, 60,000 miles
    2006 Escape, AWD, 208,000 Km's, winter beater
    2009 Jeep Compass, 4 x 4
    2010 F-150

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Kitchener ON
    Posts
    362

    Default

    Glen.
    Since you are replacing components and the sytem will be flushed with new fluid in the final stages, don't be afraid to use some heat (propane torch) to heat the connection. 30+ year old parts don't come apart like the FSM says. The flex line has a multi point or flat sided nut- like female fitting into which the 10mm flare nut threads.
    the bracket on the frame has a hole over which the fixing bracket slides, and the metal U clip is the spring clip they speak of. It fits into the groove of the flex fitting.
    Heat the connection liberally! then flash it with WD40. Quickly hold the flex fitting with the proper size wrench or a vise grip and use your line wrench on the 10mm. Don't give up afrer the first try! The main object is to save the flare fitting on the clutch line from above.
    A new line from the master can always be made up as a last resort. 6x 1.00mm pitch fittings & line can be puchased a most auto parts stores( parts source, ctc etc.)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Toronto and Orillia
    Posts
    576

    Default

    SAFETY ALERT When I put the heat to mine the rubber hose blew out of the fitting and sprayed boiling fluid in my face.
    There is a product available at Brafasco which is an aerosol which freezes the component. It works better than you'd expect.
    Eric Zondervan
    72 240Z
    06 X Trail
    07 Infinity G35S 6spd.
    11 Sierra 4X4

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lakefield
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanks for the great advice guys. I drained all the fluid out of the clutch lines and my buddy, who is a retired plumber, brought his torch over and we got the connection apart with no apparent damage. (or foul language)

    Thanks again for all the help.
    Glen

    75 280Z, 60,000 miles
    2006 Escape, AWD, 208,000 Km's, winter beater
    2009 Jeep Compass, 4 x 4
    2010 F-150

  5. #5

    Default

    I just did the same thing recently. soaked in liquid wrench for a couple days and then attacked it with two flare wrenches, came off with little effort, although the hard line was recently done so there was little to no corrosion. The slave was in bad shape. Replacing the line with MSA stainless braided line.

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